Warranty and Care

My knives and tools are handmade and require your care and attention.

Carbon tool steels may rust and pit. Natural materials may shrink, crack, and/or discolor with changes in temperature, humidity, and/or age. These outcomes are normal and expected under certain conditions, but can be avoided with proper care.

My goal is to create tools that meet your needs and are a pleasure to use. As long as I am able, my work is warrantied against defects in craftsmanship and/or materials. If you have questions or concerns please contact me [↗].

My knives are made from O1 Tool Steel. This is a low alloy carbon steel. O1 has a proven reputation for toughness and holding a sharp edge through extended use. It’s one fault is that it can rust when neglected.

To avoid this keep the blade clean and dry when not in use. Always wipe the knife before returning it to its sheath. I strongly recommend keeping a light coat of food safe oil on the blade (eg. mineral oil). Do not store the knife for long periods of time in a leather sheath.

A patina can form on the steel over time. A patina is a natural superficial discoloration that lies on the surface of the blade. It can help prevent rust.

The edge can be maintained on your choice of sharpening stone. A sharp knife is a safe knife.

Handles are typically made from phenolic laminate (ie. Micarta©). This is a lightweight, but very strong synthetic material. It is unaffected by temperature and offers a good grip even when wet.

Phenolic laminate is a porous material, so may darken with time and use. It can be scrubbed clean with mild soap. Otherwise, it requires very little maintenance.

I have also made handles from wood. Due to my father’s influence, I am fond of Bird’s Eye Maple, a form of figured Rock Maple. This is a rare wood with a distinctive pattern. I do not stabilize Rock Maple, as I have found it reliable on its own. Once a year I recommend wiping the handle with a few thin coats of pure Tung Oil. Wait for the oil to be absorbed before starting the next coat.

Knives should never be put in a dishwasher.

The types of wood I typically use are Rock Maple and Birch (Paper and Golden). I harvest the wood from my own land in Eastern Canada.

Caring for wooden items is simple: After use just rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth.

If there are still some difficult bits left over after rinsing just use your hand or the soft cloth to remove them and rinse again. Avoid scrubbing and never use abrasive pads or detergents when cleaning.

Once a year I recommend wiping the item all over with a few thin coats of pure food grade tung oil. Wait for the oil to be absorbed before starting the next coat.

Do not leave wooden items soaking in water. Do not put them in a dishwasher.

Leather sheaths and other related items are made from 8/9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder. I treat them with Neatsfoot Oil and Beeswax.

If your sheath becomes wet, let it dry naturally. It can be gently reshaped with your fingers as it dries. Over time the sheath will benefit from applying additional layers of beeswax. This is best done by warming the sheath with the help of the sun or other low heat source. The low heat will allow the beeswax to absorb into the leather. This keeps the sheath stiff, waterproof, and conditioned.

A Kydex© sheath requires no special attention. If it becomes wet, let it dry naturally.

Kydex© sheaths have many advantages over their leather counterparts. Kydex© does not stretch, bend, or deform with age. It does not retain moisture or absorb oil. A Kydex© sheath will protect your high carbon steel knife in ways a leather sheath simply cannot.

I use both 0.06" or 0.08" sheets for my sheaths.